How to judge a vintage fur
A well-kept fur coat can last for decades, so age alone tells you little. Condition tells you everything.
The skins. Vintage fur fails from the inside out: the leather dries, stiffens and eventually splits. A coat that is soft and drapes easily has been cared for. Ask the seller directly about tears and open seams.
The lining is the easy part. A torn or stained lining is cosmetic. Relining a coat is routine work for a furrier.
Smell. A stale, closet smell from storage often airs out. A strong mildew smell can mean the coat got damp, and moisture damages the skins.
Sizing.Vintage sizes run small, and shoulders were often padded or cut differently than on modern coats. Go by the seller's measurements, not the tag.
Restyling. If you love the fur but not the cut, a furrier can remodel an older coat: shorten it, change the sleeves, or rework it into a jacket or vest. Get a quote before counting on it.
Labels. Furrier and designer labels help date a coat and tell you who made it. Ask for a photo of the label and of any monogram inside.